Baxter State Park, Maine
Mount Katahdin is just a little over 5000 feet and sits in north central Maine in Baxter State Park. On the long seven hour drive up, the group of hikers I drove up with stopped to stretch our legs at a rest area. I grabbed some reading material on the way which included brouchures on Whitewater rafting and information about Baxter State Park . Turns out, some dude named Baxter was the Governor of Maine a long time ago. He was so impressed with the mountain and surrounding area, he purchased a whole bunch of land around Mount Katahdin and then donated it to the state. I recall he said something like, "to keep it in deep wilderness forever". Well, I'd say the people in the area are doing a fine job ... it's "the sticks"!
A few days ago, my friend John asked if I'd be interested in joining the same group I hiked Grand Canyon with last October. The plan was to backpack to Chimney Pond Campground from the Roaring Brook trailhead. Then spend two days hiking in the area, sleep in lean-to's, filter our drinking water, and then leave on the third day and hike back out. The next day I decided to go, and was determined to hike the Knife's Edge. I've seen many photos, read many blogs, and heard accounts from a handful of people. It sounded like the most exciting 'day hike' on the east coast! As it turned out, it probably is.
Ok, on to the hike ...
I didn't take a single photo until I arrived at the Chimney Pond Campground ... but when I did get there, it was a cool view. The panorama below doesn't do it justice, and it's only taken with a phone, but it gives a pretty good view of what it was like. I typically don't carry a regular camera.
Unlike the Mountainous area in the White Mountain National Forest, Baxter state park has only a handful of large peaks. And the micro-range of peaks in the photo are in the shape of a cresent moon, with Chimney Pond Campground sitting right in the middle of it. It is a one of a kind location and like the White Mountains, another jewel for the area.
I'm not sure what time it was when we arrived, but I'd guess around 1 o'clock in the afternoon as we ended up having a very late start. I was up first with two couples. (The Taylors) I found my lean-to ...
... unpacked my gear and ate a tuna pouch wrap. For some unknown reason, I purchased the spinach and garlic variety. I've had them before and I know I don't like them. Just the same, those little green guys were calling out my name and I got them anyway. It didn't taste good ... and the pouched 'ready to eat' tuna I bought didn't have the rice already mixed in, like the picture on the package suggested. Instead it was this reddish pasty tuna ... it sucked, but I ate it anyway.
While a couple of the other folks in the group were showing up, I asked each of them if they wanted to attempt the Knife's Edge right away. Everyone said no as they were tired from lugging the gear from the trailhead and said maybe tomorrow. I said, okay ... and took off solo. I purposely didn't read any of the warnings posted at the Rangers Office. I figured they'd think it was getting late to begin the hike, and the weather wasn't perfect. There was off again, on again light rain throughout the morning.
It was around 2:30 in the afternoon now, but the loop I had planed was less than 5 miles. I typically hike at approximately 2 miles per hour, so I figured why not. I mean, it's almost the summer solstice and it will be light out until nearly 9 PM. Besides ... I'm smart enough to turn back if it's warranted, and carry all the 'required' first-aid gear, flashlights, etc...gear.
I headed up the Dudley Trail to first summit Mount Pamola. It's the starting point of the Knife's Edge for the direction I was headed and gains nearly 2000 feet in one mile. VERY STEEP! I soon realized my trekking poles were useless and I strapped them to my pack. I also used my pack rain cover as the short showers continued off and on, all the way to the summit. Not only was I continuously having to pull myself up large rocks with my hands, I was constantly swatting little black flies away from every exposed piece of skin on my body. They were absolutely terrible and swarmed around my the entire hike. At one point during a heavy downpour, I considered turning back. I sat underneath a boulder for about 5-10 minutes and it stopped and didn't return until I finished my hike.
I took this one about 400 feet from the summit. It shows both Katahdin and Hamlin Peak. There is also some lingering snow in various nooks and crannies throughout the area. I wasn't expecting it, but I wasn't shocked to see it either.
And then here's the summit sign.
A huge bummer...noticing that I forgot my sunglasses back where I took that first photo ... 400 FEET BACK DOWN! :( I was not happy and probably should have just left them. The sun wasn't very strong, they only cost 20 bucks, and it was 400 FEET BACK DOWN in the wrong direction! After scrambling down and back up (without my pack) I started the Knife's Edge. (pictured below)
Looking North-West towards Katahdin-South Peak along the Knife's Edge, this photo simply does not do it justice. It is very intense and intimidating. A misstep or fall along this ridge is an all but certain death. 2000 feet down on either side with nothing but jagged rocks to break your fall. A handful of folks have died along this ridge, my number one goal was not to join that exclusive group. The initial drop and gain between Pamalo and Chimney Peak was as hard as it got, and though I certainly wouldn't classify it as insane, I'd say it's a second cousin to crazy and my hat goes off to anyone who's done it.
Looking back at Pamalo
And then from Kathadin-South Peak
I was real happy to get across the ridge, and for the wind I encountered once on the South Peak. The reason I named this hike 'Lord of the Flies' is due to the massive amount of black flies throughout the hike. They were relentless and swarmed around me the entire hike. The high winds on the summit provided some relief, but I was smacking every exposed skin all day long. In my eyes...in my ears, and I had forgotten the bug-net hat I bought in town, and bug spray had absolutely no effect on them.
Here I am taking the standard "I'm on the summit" proof shot.
And the summit cairn
I didn't hang out long as it was starting to get late (around 6) and I needed to hike a little over a mile back down to my lean-to. Not knowing that it's not advised to descend from that trail, I took the Cathedral Trail back down. It took a long time to navigate down because of some steep drop offs, and large collection of boulders to climb down. Had I known how much easier the Saddle Trail was (I did that one on day 2 of my trip) I certainly would have hiked the additional 1/2 mile.
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